Rajshahi: Elevating both the farming and industrial sides together with infusing dynamism into field-level promotional activities can be the crucial means of bringing back the lost glory of the traditional silk sector. Since time immemorial, Rajshahi has been famous for silk, but its legacy has been on the verge of waning for decades due to various reasons. The sericulture and silk industry, by its nature, is a family-based labor-intensive economic activity that provides employment for rural people. Many rural people had improved their living standards through boosting local silk yarn production.
According to Bangladesh Sangbad Sangstha, once upon a time, most villagers were engaged in farming silkworm sericulture alongside their regular household activities in Bagha and Charghat upazilas in Rajshahi and Bholahat upazila in Chapainawabganj districts. The glorious situation can be revived by making the best use of existing natural resources. There are enormous scopes for generating employment opportunities along with improving living and livelihood conditions for marginalized and landless people, particularly women, through their engagement in sericulture.
Rajshahi silk received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2017, legally recognizing its unique identity. The Bangladesh Sericulture Development Board (BSDB), based in Rajshahi, is mandated to revive and expand the country’s silk sector. “We intended to boost the capacity of the targeted people through imparting them with training in different stages of sericulture,” said Shafiqul Islam, Director General (DG) of BSDB, while talking to BSS recently.
In addition to the modernization of sericulture nurseries, initiatives have been taken to boost the production of mulberry plants and cocoons in Ishwardi, Rangpur, Comilla, Konabari, and Bogura nursery centers. Silk cultivation has expanded to 1,100 bighas of land in farming methods aimed at generating silk farmers and entrepreneurs, together with imparting training to 3,270 farmers for creating skilled manpower. Around 2,369 silk farmers were provided with materials for silkworm rearing. So far, around 15 lakh mulberry plants have been produced and distributed among the farmers.
In addition to constructing 874 houses for silkworm rearing by farmers, mulberry orchards on 120 bighas of land are being maintained at present. They are also planning to meet the country’s demand by enhancing the production of silkworms and raw silk. Initiatives have been taken to expand sericulture through farming methods aimed at increasing silk production on a commercial basis.
At present, more than 4,000 people are directly involved in silk farming at the grassroots level in 600 blocks. “We are extending financial support to all grassroots farmers through 59 centers,” said DG Shafiqul Islam, adding that there are also arrangements for extending support to those engaged in silk cocoon, yarn, and mulberry farming, and silk industries besides marketing silk products. They are encouraging farmers towards mulberry farming as the main crop with the ultimate goal of boosting silk production. Currently, mulberry plants are being cultivated on homesteads and roadside vacant places.
Nasima Khatun, Director (Production and Marketing) of BSDB, said the prospect of intercropping is very bright to boost additional income from the same land together with silk cocoon production throughout the region. Intercropping mulberry trees with some other vegetables and spices is being promoted among the farmers aimed at uplifting silk production. The mulberry cultivation is more or less dependent on the fallow lands and other roadside mulberry plants without proper management practice at present.
The research outputs were positive relating to the production of spices, vegetables, and mulberry leaves along with attaining food security. She said Bangladesh Sericulture Research and Training Institute (BSRTI) has innovated 20 silkworm and 15 mulberry plant varieties after long research, creating massive hope for revitalizing the prestigious silk sector. Silk production will be enhanced by around 12 to 15 percent together with decreasing dependence on the import of silk yarn amid the variety innovation recently. Farmers will also benefit enormously from the innovation.
Lutfor Rahman Talukder, Chief Planning Officer of BSDB, said the Rajshahi Silk Factory was re-launched in 2018, weaving clothes in 19 power looms. Since then, 53,000-meter clothes were manufactured till April last. Silk clothes valued at around Taka 2.5 lakh are being sold through the factory showroom. Silk fabrics, woven and designed by local artisans, are in huge demand in the region, with affluent people rushing to the silk showrooms frequently.
Saidur Rahman, showroom in-charge of Sapura Silk, said katoar shari of muslin is on the top of buyers’ choice, selling from Tk 3,500 to Tk 1,50,000. He said silk-made sharis, punjabees, three-pieces, and children’s dresses are assembled at the showrooms. Usha Silk has also brought a new design with stripes which are being sold at Tk 1,900 to Tk 6,500 per piece, sellers said. Nur Alam Bulbul, showroom in-charge of Usha Silk, said their sharies are being sold at Tk 1,150 to Tk 50,500 and the three-pieces priced at Tk 2,500 to Tk 75,500.
Varieties of silk clothes namely Bolakakar Chupi, Sui-Sutakatan, Kotisilk, Joyashri, Silk Katan, Water Katan, Jamdani Katan, Borkatan, Dupiana, Jhornakatan, shari, three-piece, orna, panjabi-pajama, shirt, fatua, and scarf are on display in every shop and showroom to attract buyers. The well-off buyers are purchasing their best choice whatever its price is while the middle and low-income groups are seen bargaining with the sellers.
Liakat Ali, President of Bangladesh Silk Industries Owners Association, said revitalization of the traditional silk sector can be the crucial means of restoring its glory as it still has an image and pride throughout the country. Integrated efforts of all the authorities concerned are very important towards reviving the prestigious sector because it’s labor-intensive in both farming and industrial sides. He said silk is not only pride and heritage for Rajshahi but also throughout the country. Utmost emphasis should be given on making the sector profitable together with sustaining its golden heritage.
Silk represents the entire Rajshahi in both home and abroad. He also said,” There are around 80 small and medium silk factories in the private sector with a capacity of manufacturing 25.50 million meters of fabrics annually.” Apart from this, there are about 10,000 private handlooms with a capacity of producing 30 million meters of silk fabric. But the factories are dependent on imported yarn. Rajshahi Silk term refers to the high-quality silk products originating from the region, famously known for its sarees. The sector relies on skilled workers such as rearers, weavers, and printers, whose retention is crucial for the industry’s health. As a whole, Liakat Ali said the silk sector faces the challenge of balancing consumer demand with a fluctuating supply of quality raw silk yarn, leading to increased prices and potential risks to the sector.